Monday, April 13, 2009

Sometimes, I get confused...

Returning to New York, I was eager to schedule “medical and maintenance” appointments. And, being the taskmaster that I am, I tried to schedule seven appointments in two days along with lunches, coffees and dinners with friends. A packed schedule would be a great cure for jetlag, so I thought…

In just six short weeks, I had become accustomed to the ease of socialized medicine in France. Suffering from a chronic back injury, I made appointments to see a chiropractor while I was in Paris. Scheduling was very simple. I sent a text to the doctor who would then text me back by the end of the day as to his availability. His office was in an elegant building in 15th near the Eiffle Tower. I would arrive a few minutes early before each scheduled appointment and wait in the parlor. Each session started with a half hour massage followed by an adjustment. I paid him 20 Euros, and he scheduled a follow up appointment on his Blackberry while I petted his dog sleeping at the foot of the massage table. No paperwork. No Secretary. Simple.

Scheduling and payment, unfortunately, are not so simple in New York. Other than my (mental) therapist, none of my other providers are available for scheduling via email. Knowing this, I jumped on SKYPE before I left Paris and began making appointments.

While packing, I followed up with my insurance provider, Aetna, which continued to deny reimbursement claims for sessions with my therapist who did not accept insurance. Each time I called, I was on hold for half an hour followed by another half hour of yelling at a “customer service representative” who inevitably told me the claim was denied for a new clerical reason. Granted, I wasn’t that busy in the New Economy (who was?) but wasn’t this a waste of everyone’s time?

My flight back on Air France was relatively drama free other than being seated next to a rather large woman who was a little too fragrant for my taste. As she reclined in her seat after take off, I was horrified to see corns and a chipped bright pink pinky toenail ascend to my field of view. I supposed that the calluses on her feet kept them warm, hence she didn’t need the socks provided complimentary by the airline. I made a mental note to schedule a pedicure for myself.

My first day back in Manhattan, I awoke early, read the paper, and left for my first appointment with my general practitioner who needed to check some of my beauty marks for any increased ambition in size or color. I arrived fifteen minutes early and spoke to one of the four secretaries in his office as I completed three pages of medical forms. Although he did have a partner, I wondered why two doctors needed four administrative staff members, so I asked. Baretta, the receptionist, told me that she and Consuelo were in charge of scheduling appointments and cataloging medical records while the other two ladies who sat behind them were in charge of accounting and processing insurance claims. Unlike my chiropractor’s parlor in Paris, I would described this windowless, fluorescent-lit reception area as a “waiting room” which still had a faint smell of industrial carpet adhesive.

After being escorted to a tiny room that was really the size of a stall, I was handed a cotton gown and instructed to disrobe. The nurse returned immediately to take my blood pressure and temperature. The reading was “normal”, but why would changes in my beauty marks cause an increase in my blood pressure? The doctor would see me shortly.

After half an hour, His Highness arrived with his Stethoscope, but seemed to have misplaced his personality. He was, however, kind enough to chill his hands before lifting my robe and asking me to cough. As for my other beauty marks, he needed to refer me to the dermatologist.

Baretta was able to schedule me that afternoon at four o’clock with my doctor’s office mate who happened to be a dermatologist. I made an attempt at a joke about how nice my medical gown was and she said she would save the same one for me when I returned. I then hustled to my next appointment which was with my therapist.

After almost an hour of exploring my anger towards the inefficiencies of our healthcare system, I walked out the door “self-actualizing” that I had just paid two hundred-fifty dollars to complain about how frustrating it is to receive reimbursement from my insurance provider after paying my therapist two hundred-fifty dollars…

My next “appointment” was actually a lunch date at BG in Bergdorf’s with a good friend of mine who wanted to catch up on my escapades in Paris. Two and a half glasses of chardonnay later, my Blackberry alarm buzzed reminding me of an appointment in fifteen minutes. I stuck my friend with the check and bolted.

I was still stewing mad thinking of how stupid our healthcare system is as I walked into my next appointment in a daze. I checked in and was handed a robe. I took off my clothes except for my socks and knickers leaving them in my stall and slipping into the robe as someone called out my name. I never seem to figure out how to tie those robes in the back so I just walked out with the back open. To my complete horror, I realized that I was at my three o’clock which was my hair appointment at Frederic Fekkai. I was wearing a grooming smock like a hospital robe and had just walked across the fourth floor of Bendel’s Department Store on Fifth Avenue with my ass hanging out!

As my stylist handed me a glass of chardonnay, I picked up my Blackberry to email my therapist to see what opening he had available the next day…


Frederic Fekkai Fifth Avenue
712 Fifth Avenue, 4th Floor
New York, NY
(212) 753-9500

BG at Bergdorf Goodman
754 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY
(212) 872-8977

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Le Costume Populaire Russe


Spring has arrived in Paris! Winter cashmere scarves are making way for linen scarves: saturated lavender, egg yolk yellow and kelly green. The scarves were out in full force last night at a private reception Pierre Berge hosted at his Fondation in conjunction with le Musee Ethnograhique de la Russie. Berge was Yves Saint Laurent’s business partner and life partner. My jet-setting Parisian host introduced me to Pierre whom we congratulated on the success of YSL-Berge auction last month, and he in turn invited us to take a look at the exhibit.

The exhibit showcased 19th and 20th Century native Russian costumes juxtaposed against YSL’s Russian collections from the mid 70s and late 90s. It was very interesting to see how the peasant colors and textures were interpreted into haute couture. More interesting was the fact that there were many American Franco-files and suspiciously few Russians at the event?

After a couple of glasses of champagne, we began to think of plans for dinner. The archivist at the foundation, a native New Yorker, made the comment to us that the 16th is such a boring place. I disagreed with her. To me the 16th feels very authentic, very Parisian. This arrondissement reminds me of the upper Eastside. Its an established neighborhood, an institution.

Ironically, we left the 16th and headed to the 8th to eat at la Maison de l’Aubrac on rue Marbeuf. The downstairs looks like some sort of Swiss Chalet on crackrock, and is primarily reserved for tourists. However, the upstairs is very hip and has a similar vibe and menu to Citta Nuova in East Hampton. We were initially told, “it’s not possible” to sit upstairs as we had no reservation. My host flashed a smile and said the American he was dining with is difficult, would it be possible to sit upstairs….It was possible.

37 rue Marbeuf
75008 Paris
www.maison-aubrac.com

Friday, March 13, 2009

Presents for Host: Nespresso & Restaurant List

A planned two-week trip to Paris has morphed into a long-term stay entering its fifth week and I’ve always depended on the kindness…of good friends.

A good friend happened to relocate to Paris last month and moved into a large, light filled two bedroom on the border of the 8th and the 16th overlooking the Embassy of Uruguay. My friend is constantly traveling and offered for me stay in his guest bedroom. So, I moved in after staying at a hotel for a few weeks and set up temporary residence.

As a token of my appreciation, I wanted to give him a small present. Given my friend’s jet-set schedule, he usually doesn’t have time to make coffee before dashing to the next PR event or product development meeting. What to get? What to get?

I decided on two things.

A Nespresso Machine. The machine makes a perfect espresso or coffee in seconds. It’s easy to clean and easy to refill. The store on the Champs-Elysees carries 12 new colors. I chose burnt orange to match the tile of my host’s kitchen (and the fire in his personality!)

www.nespresso.com

A Restaurant List. Over the past few weeks, I had the opportunity to experience some great restaurants (and some not so great). I made a list of my favorites including ones in areas that he might not otherwise have time to explore.

L’Epi Dupin Restaurant
11 Rue Dupin
75006 Paris
01 42 22 64 56
www.epidupin.com

The best prix fixe I had in Paris. Casual elegance and young crowd. Amazing service and even better food. I love the fact that this restaurant is closed on the weekends so the proprietors can spend time with their families.

Les Bouquinistes a Restaurant by Guy Savoy
53 Quai des Grands Augustins
75006 Paris
01 43 25 45 94
www.guysavoy.com

Baccarat Cristal Room
11 Place des Etats Unis
75116 Paris
www.baccarat.fr

I am the biggest Philippe Starck fan of all time. Yet, I do profess that knowing he designed this space a number of years ago made me a bit cautious because even as a “fan” I perceive Stark experiences as becoming very dated very fast. The experience I had the Cristal Room was exceptional! The food was a work of art and the service far exceeded my expectations.

La Gazzetta
29 Rue de Cotte
750012 Paris
01 43 47 47 05
www.lagazetta.fr

The 12th is similar to the East Village in Manhattan. Historically, parts of have been inhabited by groups of immigrants which gives the area great “flavor”. From the 8th, I took the Metro to Bastille and walked to La Gazetta. Handmade raviolis for my entrĂ©e and a Corsican style steak for my main. Wow!

Diwan Lebanese
30 Avenue de George V
75008 Paris
01 47 23 45 45

The best chicken kebab I’ve ever eaten. 16 Euros for the plate which also includes generous portions of eggplant, humus, and tabouli.

404 Restaurant Familial
69 Rue des Gravilliers
75003 Paris
01 42 74 57 81

Very hip and hopping scene featuring cuisines of North Africa

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Avoid Buffets on the Champs Elysees at All Costs!!

Let’s face it, as a travelisto, one should aspire to have an open mind about new experiences and ideas. One of my goals on this sabbatical to Paris was to try to give up the need to be in control. So when a group of Parisian friends invited me to Sunday Brunch, I agreed without knowing the final destination. In my head I was associating the word “brunch” with a lingering afternoon reading the paper and talking at Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor or Babette’s in East Hampton. I’m sure my friends must be taking me to the Parisian equivalent? Why did I need to know where we are going ahead of time? These folks were locals and why should I feel the need to Google information about the restaurant ahead of time or “corroborate” their opinions?

Signs of Danger

Sign 1
My first indication that something bad was about to happen flashed on the IM screen of my new Blackberry Bold: “Meet at the Southwest corner of the Champs-Elysees and look for Danish flag”. Okay, this message was the equivalent of telling someone to meet at 45th and Broadway and look for the Marriott Marquis…

“Open-mind…Open-mind”, I started to chant so I wouldn’t grind my back teeth.

Sign 2
Well, at least Spring was in the air. The sun was out and birds were chirping as I quickly identified the Danish Flags and passed through glass sliding doors into a foyer with ballroom carpet, flowers of questionable pedigree, and a hostess in a black polyester uniform. I felt a bit disoriented…this felt very reminiscent of stepping onto a Carnival Cruise ship in 1987. But, the space was very bright and sunny. It almost felt as if I were in an outdoor atrium or courtyard. Settling into the my surrounds a bit more, I noticed bird nests everywhere in various colors of blue and strawberry as pre-cognitive senses started to send more danger signs to my brain…

These weren’t nests! These were coifs! The room was full of geriatric women swarming around something I could not identify in the center of the room.

Sign 3
The reality of this horrible, horrible situation was finally hitting me. Though I was trying my best to keep an open-mind, in an instant I knew in my heart of hearts what was happening….I was at a Buffet!

In France, I get with the program and can eat snails. With enthusiasm, I’ve tried raw beef, and even smiled when I’ve eaten cow’s cheek or sheep’s brain. Was this a French buffet or a Danish Buffet anyway? I guess it didn’t matter the nationality of the buffet…it was still a buffet. And as I passed a pair of dentures floating in the bechamel sauce, I knew Destiny had sent me to such a place to atone for naughty things I must have done in the past.

But, in the end, I made it through that two and a half hour “experience” picking at a stale croissant trying to smile graciously at my hosts. I thought “I gave up control and made it through this challenge” as I surveyed the carnage of soiled white table clothes and red lipstick scars on countless glasses around me.

Secretly, I longed for the New York Times and a proper Sunday afternoon brunch on the East End of Long Island…

Friday, March 6, 2009

Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go....

As I was walking by the Louis Vuitton store on the Champs-Eylsees, I thought of a very good friend who is a 'top reporter' for a fashion rag. I'm always intrigued when she poses the question "what was your inspiration for this collection?". I really think she's asking "who did you copy, knock-off or exploit for this commercial venture?".

In the Georgia, my people are able to artfully deliver an insult and absolve themselves of guilt by ending a slur with the phrase "Bless his or her heart". (Hillary is intelligent, but has really fat ankles...Bless her heart). In fashion, designers absolve themselves of the guilt of exploiting other designers by "Paying Tribute".

This year, Vuitton "pays tribute" to Stephen Sprouse.

www.welovesprouse.com

Orange, Pink and Lime Neon colors with allusions to Street Graffiti. I’ve seen it all before…everyone’s seen it all before.

Hadn't MTV and Martha Quinn already brought punk to the proletariat in the early 80s? Grace made me a “Slave to the Rhythm” and Madge had me "Burning Up" as I walked around rural Georgia in my Vans, neon lime Parachute pants, cream Members-Only jacket with a boombox in one hand and black rubber bracelets dangling from my pre-pubescent wrist.

Yet, I began to obsess “are those clever Vuitton marketers looping WHAM's Make It Big Album?". Of course I couldn’t make it in to find out as there were over 100 Japanese tourists waiting in line to enter the flagship which looked more like a Disney Store than a Parisian Boutique. So I studied each window. Are those neon striped sneakers meant to be worn with dolphin shorts or with basketball shorts? Was I allowed to think of putting together my own outfit, or was I meant buy the coordinating Vuitton shirt, pants and sandals? Was the joke on me?

Did Vuitton really need to bring Punk back to the People? This campaign felt very “Bling” with an insincere Punk veneer. Bling is Boring and not very “New Economy”. Marc Jabobs, Wake me up before you go-go…..

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Talking with Betsey Johnson from Z to New York...

New Year's was over and I was returning from a friend's villa in Z.

Everyone had boarded the plane departing from the Zihuatanejo Airport, or so I thought, when “something” came spinning up the stairs just as the forward door was being closed (there are no air-bridges at this airport). This “something” hurled some sort of plastic gold suitcase which appeared to have been attacked by a Bedazzler and dipped in glitter into the cabin. As I flinched from the trajectory of sequins, glitter and rhinestones, I caught a glimpse of what appeared to be blonde locks?

In usual circumstances, I would have panicked and grabbed someone’s child to throw at the oncoming assault. But I was in Mexico, and the two glasses of tequila I drank before embarking helped to slow my usually manic thought process so that I could more easily digest my situation. I had narrowed this situation down to only two possibilities: The Tasmanian Devil had retired to Mexico and was being called back to Warner Brothers for a new Bugs Bunny feature, OR the Chupacabra was making a daytime attack on a commercial aircraft.

Neither scenario proved correct: Betsey Johnson had just boarded the plane plopping down right next to me.

Betsy and I had met before briefly in Sag Harbor. Once she had buckled in, and we each had a drink to settle our nerves, she started telling me about her homes outside of “Z” (that’s short for Zihuatanejo) after I told her that I was looking at possibly representing villa rentals in Z for Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club.

She had built two homes and was now putting them on the market. She told me of her love affair with Mexico….the colors, the ocean, the people. So, I asked her why she is now selling both her places? She told me that as an artist, Mexico gave her inspiration, but as a grandmother she wanted to be closer to her grandchildren. She had remodeled a home in East Hampton and the two-hour car ride from New York made her Hamptons home an easy destination. She told me that East Hampton gives her a different sense of inspiration as an artist. The town and her home there give her a sense of serenity.

She also talked about the challenges of being both an entrepreneur and a designer while managing to date a much younger Italian and build homes. At 65, she still oversees her entire collection and co-manages more than eighty stores which are all corporate owned. I asked where she was currently deriving inspiration? She told me that 80s punk was back, and that she was currently taking inspiration from her own vintage pieces.

I asked her what other designers inspired her and she immediately declared “Donna Karan”. She loved what Donna had done in Sag Harbor with Urban Zen mixing home decor with amazing sweaters and accessories. She also loved what the store stood for: mixing cultures and inspiring change through fashion and design. Betsey and I also talked about Donna's daughter Gaby and what a wonderful job she had done with the restaurant Tutto Il Giorno adjacent to Urban Zen.

Though I was still cautious of her carry-on, Betsey bedazzled me. She had amazing energy, she was positive and she had designed a life that worked for her.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Yves Saint Laurent Auction, Grand Palais


There appeared to be absolutely no economic crisis in Paris last night as the private collection of Yves Saint Laurent and life partner Piere Berge became the most expensive one ever sold at auction, bringing in more than $262 million on the first night alone. There are two more auction days left!

The Grand Palais was almost at capacity filled with buyers, buyers' agents, auctioneers, dignitaries and the press. There were over 1200 seated collectors. The electricity in the room began to magnify in the room as the early lots started exceeding original estimates. There were two high points of the evening. The Duchamp, piece “Beautiful Breath, Veil Water,” sold for six times its original estimate when a bidding war broke out between two American collectors, and the Matisse from 1911,a vase of cowslips on a carpet, sold for over $40 million, double its estimate.

Also sold were several paintings by Piet Mondrian which inspired the famous YSL Mondrian Dress.

As many of the lots started to exceed estimates, I turned to Paddle 619 seated next to me and remarked "this sure doesn't feel like the New Economy." He replied "sure it does. I would rather invest my money in amazing art or irreplaceable real estate than in the stock market. At least I have something I enjoy".

Hmmm...the New Economy.