J'ai deux amours...

I have two loves: Entrecote in Paris and In-N-Out Burger in LA....

Returning to Paris after a four day carb fest in Saint Tropez/Ramatuelle, I was on a hunt. A howl and a whine and I found myself walking at a pace that might even be described as a trot to le "Relais de l'Entrecote".

Fortunately, the "New Economy" has thinned usual lines of tourists waiting for a table at this Parisian establishment, and I was seated right away. Usually, I dine alone at Entrecote as most of my Parisian friends wouldn't be caught dead in such a touristy restaurant.

Like In-N-Out, Entrecot offers little choice and has few complications. There is one question to answer and two to ask: "How do you want your meat cooked" followed with "May I have a half bottle of red?" and later "May I have the Profiteroles au Chocolat?"

All three locations are always full of American tourists and smiling French Waitresses. In-N-Out usually sets me back about $6, while Entrecot sets me back about $60.


I love le "Relais de l'Entrecote", and I'm not ashamed!

15 Rue Marbeuf in the 8th

49 Rue Saint-Benoit or 101 Boulevard du Montparnasse in the 6th

www.relaisentrecote.fr

Do you know the way to Saint Tropez?

Making last minute arrangements for a quick mid-week trip to St. Tropez from Paris is very easy, and quite a treat in early spring. From Paris-Orly (West Terminal), Air France offers frequent service to Toulon which is approximately 45 kilometers from St. Tropez. Leaving my hotel on Avenue George V, the taxi ride was only about a 25 minute ride leaving in the afternoon, and the flight itself was just over an hour. Other than flying private from Paris, the Orly to Toulon commercial route relatively drama free. Also, there is much less traffic driving east from Toulon to Saint Tropez (as opposed to enduring the traffic in St. Maxim when driving from Nice).

I enjoy the serenity of Saint Tropez very much in the Spring in that its such a wonderful place to relax, write, jog and bike. And, I must admit, I enjoy the intensity and energy of the sun and the scene in Sumer. My recommendations for Summer '09....

Accomodations

Mr. Gatsby's Travel Club
Unless I'm staying on a boat, my preference is to stay outside of the Village of Saint Tropez in Ramatuelle where there a number of villas available for rent. Mr. Gatsby's Travel Club can arrange both villa rentals and yacht charters in the area. The service can also arrange moped rentals for guests which is really the best way to travel given how horrific the traffic can be in and out of Saint Tropez.

1 (310) 595 4847

La Reserve Ramatuelle
This Hotel and Spa, originally built in the 60s, is undergoing a complete renovation and scheduled to open May 2009. Fabulous Views and has a Super Wow Factor!

33 (0)4 94 79 14 28

www.lareserve-ramatuelle.com

Treats & Haunts

The Village of Ramteulle is a charming medieval collection of restaurants, hotel and shops just a few kilometers from Saint Tropez. Ramatuelle is one of my most favorite places in the world. Its very chic because its so authentic and not overrun with what competitive tourists.

ALM is a new discovery in Ramatuelle. The concept is a collection of three buildings featuring an art gallery, a furniture boutique and an atelier. Goodies include beautifully curated modern art, lighting and accessories as well as jewelry, candles and beach accessories. Shipping to the US is relatively easy, and ALM's signature died pillow cases made from antique lines easily fit into a suitcase.

The three proprietors are incredibly hospitable offering coffee, biscuits and wonderful conversation. I spent an afternoon in their garden listening to their story and admiring their passion for linens, photography and architecture.

33 (0)6 11 62 01 63

Bathing Spots and Watering Holes

Le Club 55 (in the spirit of 54!)

Featuring outdoor dining and mattress service, the "scene" is a perfect mix of Bankers, Models, Fashion Figures, Russians and Gays, and the proprietor is not impressed with a bad attitude with so many "fabulous" patrons vying for the best tables. A bit of charm and a touch of patience does seem to endear a respectable table. Patience might include taking a bottle of rose on chaises longues a la plage while waiting for a table. No one eats before 2pm. The sole is fantastic and so is the music.

I love the pageantry at 55!

Plage de Pampelonne

33 (0)4 94 55 55 55

Key West

Located just around the corner from 55, this beach club is a nice alternative to the "scence", and a more appropriate selection for those who travel with children. The food and the service are both wonderful, although the beach is a bit narrower.

Plage de Pampelonne

33 (0)4 94 79 86 58

L'Esquinade

Fans of the dining shacks along Highway 27 from the East Hampton to Montauk would love this beach side restaurant famous for its mussels. The atmosphere is the opposite of a scene with an authentic Provencal ambiance.

I ordered les moules pastis and soaked every drop of juice from my pot of mussels.

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 79 83 42

La Plage des Salins
Casual-chic dining with tables sitting on the sand. This beach club is popular with locals. Father Manu and daughter Celia run the show at Salins, and both are incredibly hospitable.

Route des Salins
33 (0)4 94 97 15 66

Accessories a la plage…

The Beach Bag
ALM-Boutique in Ramatuelle sells great bags made of burlap and canvas that are fantastic for carrying beach bags and buying groceries at the farmer’s market.

Towels and Bathing Suits
The Shop at Club 55 is the best place for towels and bathing suits. The shop produces a “fashion show” during lunch complete with models in bikinis (but the real show is watching the actual patrons primp and strut!)

Both Kiwi and Vilebrequin have boutiques along Rue Gambetta in Saint Tropez. Personally, I'm a bit bored with both lines. I like the Parker and Ronan suits (available at Saks in New York).

The boutiques Erthee tucked away in the passage near rue Clemenceau and Bla-Bla located on Place de la Garrone are not to be missed by the ladies looking for a great selection of Choos, Missonni beach ware and Lanvin evening ware.

The Jewelry
Frojo Joaillerie at Place de la Garrone (ask for Swedish Suzanne).
33 (0)4 94 97 58 13

Francesca Dona Jewelry at Rue de la Ponche.
33 (0)4 94 49 00 29

The Sandals
Rondini located on Rue Clemenceau is known for the Tropeziennes sandals.

What hostess present to bring to a Parisian dinner party?

Last week, I escaped the "New Economy" in New York and fled to Paris for a few weeks. I arrived at my hotel at noon to find that I was invited to a dinner party at the home of a couple I barely knew. My hosts were receiving at 8 that evening, and I had no idea how many guests would be attending. What to take as my hostess gift? Wine is too expected, and in France, can be really tricky. And, I thought I remembered that the hostess didn't drink alcohol.

And then it hit me walking down the Champs Elysee! Macaroons from Laduree! I chose 32 multi-colored macaroons from the store's flagship location (flavors including mango, pistachio, dark chocolate, orange blossom, lemon and mocha) Each cost approximately 1 Euro. The packaging for the macaroons was a treat in of itself....a peppermint green box with a pink ribbon.

www.laduree.com

Ladurée Champs Elysées
75, avenue des Champs Elysées - 75008 Paris
Tel : 01.40.75.08.75

Sixteen people came to dinner that night. The treats were a huge success served with coffee after dinner!

Paris Treats

Its unreasonable to think one can come to Paris and not shop...even in the new economy.

Hediard
Chocolate Truffles and Tea!!! Yum!! These were Treats for me.
www.hediard.com.sg

Avenue George V next to the Four Seasons Hotel

Longchamp
On past trips to Paris, I usually run, literally run, to Hermes. This trip actually was no exception, but the store was empty, and I felt guilty for spending money there. So, instead, I ventured to Longchamp to pick up an accessory or two. My great find was a linen scarf for 65 Euros. Very chic. Very reasonable.

404 Rue St Honore (somewhat Hermes adjacent)

Serge Lutens
Perfume and Cologne. 70 Euros. Great packaging for gifts.

Les Salons du Palais Royal

Dolly Lenz: “Keeping it Real (Estate) at Cipriani’s at the Sherry-Netherland”

The sea of patrons paused at Cipriani’s as the Queen of Manhattan Real Estate entered the restaurant while an eager staff swarmed around her as if she were truly holding court. A tiger with a tough reputation? A title that connotes the evil imagery of the late Leona Helmsley? On the contrary, Dolly Lenz is one of the nicest people I know.

Dolly and I were having lunch with interior designer Moises Esquenazi to discuss "design driven" real estate projects in Manhattan and the Hamptons that might be appropriate for Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club. Being the highest producing real estate broker in the City, Dolly would help identify properties with renovation potential, and Esquenazi would take the creative lead on the projects. These properties would then be represented by Mr. Gatsby's for short term and vacation rentals. We tossed around various ideas and analyzed timing in the market.

The meeting was interrupted frequently by friends, fans and clients stopping by the table to say hello and to ask Dolly for sound bites of information on the market similar to the ones she gives as a guest on CNBC.

As she ate liver, Dolly offered her opinions on the market from both an intuitive and analytical vantage. She’s a true believer in the value of Manhattan Real Estate as a “blue-chip” value. Although the market is currently overbuilt with many new projects still being completed, the bottom line is that there is a very limited supply of land on the island.

Dolly discussed the 'data’ in relation to pricing and absorbing the current inventory. This included current employment and compensation trends in the City, Buyer Confidence, as well as the lack of liquidity and credit available in the high-end market. Most of her “cash’ buyers actually borrowed against personal lines of credit secured by “liquid” assets in investment vehicles such as hedge funds. These liquid vehicles proved not to be so liquid after all, and as the values of the funds plummeted, her high-end buyers were squeezed as their lines of credit were reduced or called altogether.

She thought that we had not reached in the bottom of the market; Buyers are still suffering from a crisis in confidence.

It was a shame Dolly couldn’t distribute some of her personal confidence into the market. She was very impassioned in describing New York as if the City is an animated character welcoming ambition. She emphasized that the brightest minds and the most talented people tend to gravitate to the City, and this is always a catalyst in moving the ‘data’. She had grown up to parents of Portuguese heritage of modest means, and she created herself as the Queen of Manhattan Real Estate at a relatively young age. Spending a couple of hours with Dolly, I was quite confident she would maintain her title for quite some time.

As we were leaving court at almost four o’clock in the afternoon, Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem arrived for lunch wearing matching baseball caps. The Queen flashed a smile of hello to them and proceeded to the kitchen to congratulate the chef on the liver.

Such is “Keeping it Real” on a Friday afternoon at Cipriani’s….