Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Talking with Betsey Johnson from Z to New York...

New Year's was over and I was returning from a friend's villa in Z.

Everyone had boarded the plane departing from the Zihuatanejo Airport, or so I thought, when “something” came spinning up the stairs just as the forward door was being closed (there are no air-bridges at this airport). This “something” hurled some sort of plastic gold suitcase which appeared to have been attacked by a Bedazzler and dipped in glitter into the cabin. As I flinched from the trajectory of sequins, glitter and rhinestones, I caught a glimpse of what appeared to be blonde locks?

In usual circumstances, I would have panicked and grabbed someone’s child to throw at the oncoming assault. But I was in Mexico, and the two glasses of tequila I drank before embarking helped to slow my usually manic thought process so that I could more easily digest my situation. I had narrowed this situation down to only two possibilities: The Tasmanian Devil had retired to Mexico and was being called back to Warner Brothers for a new Bugs Bunny feature, OR the Chupacabra was making a daytime attack on a commercial aircraft.

Neither scenario proved correct: Betsey Johnson had just boarded the plane plopping down right next to me.

Betsy and I had met before briefly in Sag Harbor. Once she had buckled in, and we each had a drink to settle our nerves, she started telling me about her homes outside of “Z” (that’s short for Zihuatanejo) after I told her that I was looking at possibly representing villa rentals in Z for Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club.

She had built two homes and was now putting them on the market. She told me of her love affair with Mexico….the colors, the ocean, the people. So, I asked her why she is now selling both her places? She told me that as an artist, Mexico gave her inspiration, but as a grandmother she wanted to be closer to her grandchildren. She had remodeled a home in East Hampton and the two-hour car ride from New York made her Hamptons home an easy destination. She told me that East Hampton gives her a different sense of inspiration as an artist. The town and her home there give her a sense of serenity.

She also talked about the challenges of being both an entrepreneur and a designer while managing to date a much younger Italian and build homes. At 65, she still oversees her entire collection and co-manages more than eighty stores which are all corporate owned. I asked where she was currently deriving inspiration? She told me that 80s punk was back, and that she was currently taking inspiration from her own vintage pieces.

I asked her what other designers inspired her and she immediately declared “Donna Karan”. She loved what Donna had done in Sag Harbor with Urban Zen mixing home decor with amazing sweaters and accessories. She also loved what the store stood for: mixing cultures and inspiring change through fashion and design. Betsey and I also talked about Donna's daughter Gaby and what a wonderful job she had done with the restaurant Tutto Il Giorno adjacent to Urban Zen.

Though I was still cautious of her carry-on, Betsey bedazzled me. She had amazing energy, she was positive and she had designed a life that worked for her.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Yves Saint Laurent Auction, Grand Palais


There appeared to be absolutely no economic crisis in Paris last night as the private collection of Yves Saint Laurent and life partner Piere Berge became the most expensive one ever sold at auction, bringing in more than $262 million on the first night alone. There are two more auction days left!

The Grand Palais was almost at capacity filled with buyers, buyers' agents, auctioneers, dignitaries and the press. There were over 1200 seated collectors. The electricity in the room began to magnify in the room as the early lots started exceeding original estimates. There were two high points of the evening. The Duchamp, piece “Beautiful Breath, Veil Water,” sold for six times its original estimate when a bidding war broke out between two American collectors, and the Matisse from 1911,a vase of cowslips on a carpet, sold for over $40 million, double its estimate.

Also sold were several paintings by Piet Mondrian which inspired the famous YSL Mondrian Dress.

As many of the lots started to exceed estimates, I turned to Paddle 619 seated next to me and remarked "this sure doesn't feel like the New Economy." He replied "sure it does. I would rather invest my money in amazing art or irreplaceable real estate than in the stock market. At least I have something I enjoy".

Hmmm...the New Economy.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

How to travel in (relative) luxury....

To me, living in luxury is living within one’s means while making smart choices about time and money. Living a life of luxury isn’t about vulgar, conspicuous consumption or displaying wealth (or illusions of wealth). Mr. Gatsby’s aspires to report about unique treats, haunts and experiences independent of price.

Traveling to Paris to work to report on the Yves Saint Laurent Auction and to preview villa rentals for Mr. Gatsby’s Travel Club, I tried to be very deliberate in my travel choices. My budget, beyond the cost of the hotel, was 100 euros per day, and I wrote every single expense in my pocket journal. I ’m not very good at “sticking” to a budget, but “tracking” to a budget gave me sense of empowerment. Many days I broke the budget, but writing each expense down made me aware of what I was spending.







A few tips:
Da Plane Da Plane….use Points! When not pursuing the life of a Travlelisto, I build and remodel homes in the Hamptons. When buying appliances, lumber, and furniture, I use my American Express which has enabled me to accumulate a fair amount of points. I booked my ticket to Paris using points and used American Express Travel which is very helpful in navigating blackout dates.

Hotel Bookings. Paying for my flight with points allowed me more of an indulgence for my hotel expense. Most “luxury” hotels aren’t eager to discount their nightly rate, but are willing to offer “packages” such as spa packages or meal plans. I reserved the basic room at the hotel and was offered my fifth night free, and when I arrived I was upgraded to a junior suite with a terrace facing the avenue. Usually, I prefer to stay on the Left Bank, but I chose to stay in the 8th to be walking distance to the Grand Palais which is where Christie’s was exhibiting the Yves Saint Laurent collection.

Don’t order hotel coffee.
Unfortunately, my hotel didn’t offer a meal plan, and I refuse to pay 35 euros (plus service) for a pot of coffee. The price of coffee motivated me to leave the hotel earlier than I might otherwise have. I discovered a great café, La Grande Corona, at the foot of Avenue George V that offers omelets for 7 euros.

Publicis Drugstore on the Champs-Elysee Publicis is open until 2 a.m. and sells Evian for 1.15 euro. The store feels like a hybrid of White’s Pharmacy in East Hampton and Fred Segal on Melrose. There are various kiosks in the store selling perfume, champagne, chocolates, candles, magazines, Pierre Herme macaroons and Missoni sweaters.


Tipping is a Karma…good tipping brings good karma. I factor tips into my travel budget. I tip the doorman, the maid, and the concierge the first day I arrive.

Don’t aspire to be “Euro-trash”. When I was in my late teens, my friends and I would make pilgrimages into the New York to frequent Au Bar and Nell’s. Wearing a collective bad attitude and projecting a sense of entitlement as if we were minor royalty of undetermined European origin always gained us immediate access to the clubs and frequent admission to the “VIP Area”. At thirtysomething, I don’t find acting like Euro-trash serves me well when actually traveling in Europe. A sincere “please” and “thank you” with a smile seems to be more effective these days.

Take a Lulu Lemom Tracksuit and Trainers. Running along the Seine is free and helps to shake jetlag.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

J'ai deux amours...


I have two loves: Entrecote in Paris and In-N-Out Burger in LA....

Returning to Paris after a four day carb fest in Saint Tropez/Ramatuelle, I was on a hunt. A howl and a whine and I found myself walking at a pace that might even be described as a trot to le "Relais de l'Entrecote".

Fortunately, the "New Economy" has thinned usual lines of tourists waiting for a table at this Parisian establishment, and I was seated right away. Usually, I dine alone at Entrecote as most of my Parisian friends wouldn't be caught dead in such a touristy restaurant.

Like In-N-Out, Entrecot offers little choice and has few complications. There is one question to answer and two to ask: "How do you want your meat cooked" followed with "May I have a half bottle of red?" and later "May I have the Profiteroles au Chocolat?"

All three locations are always full of American tourists and smiling French Waitresses. In-N-Out usually sets me back about $6, while Entrecot sets me back about $60.


I love le "Relais de l'Entrecote", and I'm not ashamed!

15 Rue Marbeuf in the 8th

49 Rue Saint-Benoit or 101 Boulevard du Montparnasse in the 6th

www.relaisentrecote.fr

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Do you know the way to Saint Tropez?

Making last minute arrangements for a quick mid-week trip to St. Tropez from Paris is very easy, and quite a treat in early spring. From Paris-Orly (West Terminal), Air France offers frequent service to Toulon which is approximately 45 kilometers from St. Tropez. Leaving my hotel on Avenue George V, the taxi ride was only about a 25 minute ride leaving in the afternoon, and the flight itself was just over an hour. Other than flying private from Paris, the Orly to Toulon commercial route relatively drama free. Also, there is much less traffic driving east from Toulon to Saint Tropez (as opposed to enduring the traffic in St. Maxim when driving from Nice).

I enjoy the serenity of Saint Tropez very much in the Spring in that its such a wonderful place to relax, write, jog and bike. And, I must admit, I enjoy the intensity and energy of the sun and the scene in Sumer. My recommendations for Summer '09....


Accomodations

Mr. Gatsby's Travel Club
Unless I'm staying on a boat, my preference is to stay outside of the Village of Saint Tropez in Ramatuelle where there a number of villas available for rent. Mr. Gatsby's Travel Club can arrange both villa rentals and yacht charters in the area. The service can also arrange moped rentals for guests which is really the best way to travel given how horrific the traffic can be in and out of Saint Tropez.

1 (310) 595 4847


La Reserve Ramatuelle
This Hotel and Spa, originally built in the 60s, is undergoing a complete renovation and scheduled to open May 2009. Fabulous Views and has a Super Wow Factor!

33 (0)4 94 79 14 28
www.lareserve-ramatuelle.com

Treats & Haunts

The Village of Ramteulle is a charming medieval collection of restaurants, hotel and shops just a few kilometers from Saint Tropez. Ramatuelle is one of my most favorite places in the world. Its very chic because its so authentic and not overrun with what competitive tourists.

ALM is a new discovery in Ramatuelle. The concept is a collection of three buildings featuring an art gallery, a furniture boutique and an atelier. Goodies include beautifully curated modern art, lighting and accessories as well as jewelry, candles and beach accessories. Shipping to the US is relatively easy, and ALM's signature died pillow cases made from antique lines easily fit into a suitcase.

The three proprietors are incredibly hospitable offering coffee, biscuits and wonderful conversation. I spent an afternoon in their garden listening to their story and admiring their passion for linens, photography and architecture.

33 (0)6 11 62 01 63


Bathing Spots and Watering Holes

Le Club 55 (in the spirit of 54!)
Featuring outdoor dining and mattress service, the "scene" is a perfect mix of Bankers, Models, Fashion Figures, Russians and Gays, and the proprietor is not impressed with a bad attitude with so many "fabulous" patrons vying for the best tables. A bit of charm and a touch of patience does seem to endear a respectable table. Patience might include taking a bottle of rose on chaises longues a la plage while waiting for a table. No one eats before 2pm. The sole is fantastic and so is the music.

I love the pageantry at 55!

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 55 55 55

Key West
Located just around the corner from 55, this beach club is a nice alternative to the "scence", and a more appropriate selection for those who travel with children. The food and the service are both wonderful, although the beach is a bit narrower.

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 79 86 58

L'Esquinade
Fans of the dining shacks along Highway 27 from the East Hampton to Montauk would love this beach side restaurant famous for its mussels. The atmosphere is the opposite of a scene with an authentic Provencal ambiance.

I ordered les moules pastis and soaked every drop of juice from my pot of mussels.

Plage de Pampelonne
33 (0)4 94 79 83 42

La Plage des Salins
Casual-chic dining with tables sitting on the sand. This beach club is popular with locals. Father Manu and daughter Celia run the show at Salins, and both are incredibly hospitable.

Route des Salins
33 (0)4 94 97 15 66

Accessories a la plage…

The Beach Bag
ALM-Boutique in Ramatuelle sells great bags made of burlap and canvas that are fantastic for carrying beach bags and buying groceries at the farmer’s market.

Towels and Bathing Suits
The Shop at Club 55 is the best place for towels and bathing suits. The shop produces a “fashion show” during lunch complete with models in bikinis (but the real show is watching the actual patrons primp and strut!)

Both Kiwi and Vilebrequin have boutiques along Rue Gambetta in Saint Tropez. Personally, I'm a bit bored with both lines. I like the Parker and Ronan suits (available at Saks in New York).

The boutiques Erthee tucked away in the passage near rue Clemenceau and Bla-Bla located on Place de la Garrone are not to be missed by the ladies looking for a great selection of Choos, Missonni beach ware and Lanvin evening ware.

The Jewelry
Frojo Joaillerie at Place de la Garrone (ask for Swedish Suzanne).
33 (0)4 94 97 58 13

Francesca Dona Jewelry at Rue de la Ponche.
33 (0)4 94 49 00 29

The Sandals
Rondini located on Rue Clemenceau is known for the Tropeziennes sandals.















Sunday, February 15, 2009

What hostess present to bring to a Parisian dinner party?


Last week, I escaped the "New Economy" in New York and fled to Paris for a few weeks. I arrived at my hotel at noon to find that I was invited to a dinner party at the home of a couple I barely knew. My hosts were receiving at 8 that evening, and I had no idea how many guests would be attending. What to take as my hostess gift? Wine is too expected, and in France, can be really tricky. And, I thought I remembered that the hostess didn't drink alcohol.

And then it hit me walking down the Champs Elysee! Macaroons from Laduree! I chose 32 multi-colored macaroons from the store's flagship location (flavors including mango, pistachio, dark chocolate, orange blossom, lemon and mocha) Each cost approximately 1 Euro. The packaging for the macaroons was a treat in of itself....a peppermint green box with a pink ribbon.

www.laduree.com

Ladurée Champs Elysées
75, avenue des Champs Elysées - 75008 Paris
Tel : 01.40.75.08.75

Sixteen people came to dinner that night. The treats were a huge success served with coffee after dinner!

Monday, February 9, 2009

Paris Treats


Its unreasonable to think one can come to Paris and not shop...even in the new economy.

Hediard
Chocolate Truffles and Tea!!! Yum!! These were Treats for me.
www.hediard.com.sg

Avenue George V next to the Four Seasons Hotel

Longchamp
On past trips to Paris, I usually run, literally run, to Hermes. This trip actually was no exception, but the store was empty, and I felt guilty for spending money there. So, instead, I ventured to Longchamp to pick up an accessory or two. My great find was a linen scarf for 65 Euros. Very chic. Very reasonable.

404 Rue St Honore (somewhat Hermes adjacent)

Serge Lutens
Perfume and Cologne. 70 Euros. Great packaging for gifts.

Les Salons du Palais Royal